Aug 28 - Day 14

So, here comes Death Valley. Up early and in for our breakfast we hit the road from Pahrump by just after 7:00AM and it was just about 24 degrees. On the 190 we came up on Stovepipe Wells, where the indication for altitude was pretty simple, 0! Just to the left was this desert resort, and further down the road in Furnace Creek (great names) was a camp grounds. Coming into this valley the temp began climbing steadily but it was a different heat, like that kind that wafts over your face as you open a kiln to check your pottery. Traveling along the mountain base we finally turned to cross the long flat area, actually seeing a sign reading, "-150 below sea level". Before long we came across some sand dunes in the distance and had to brave a stop to get a few images. It's around 8:45AM now and reading 33 on the gauge. Pushing forward we started to climb again with road signs warning about dips - ya dips. Like a roller coaster or a moto cross track, the road followed along as we went up and down. Oh ya, climbing - we went up to 5000 ft above, then back down to 0, all within 45 minutes or less.

The final stretch across barren land bringing us to Panamint Springs (originally settled by a cousin of Buffalo Bill) for gas. The attendant was none to shy to mentioned that he envied us on our ride.

From here we had a boring stretch climbing back to some sort of civilization, down a blah blah stretch on the 395 South until turning off on the 41 to cross the Sequia Range. What a change!

Within 15 minutes we went from 36+ heat and dry, desert lands to a mountain road that wound deeper and deeper into a Walt Disney land full of green and brown, cooler temps and tons of critters running across the road. Finally reaching a summit, we paused and met a couple riding up our path down. Apparently, 6 weeks prior some friends of theirs tried to do the route but it was blocked with too much snow. That's like July! It was beautiful for us though.

Rolling down through twisting canyons the road surface improved (a little bumpy from mountain abuse) and now it was more of a concern for gas. Two bars, then one and nothing in sight or on the map. We even ran into another guy who had ran out. Giggling, there was nothing we could do but push on. Turning in at a time share dude ranch (full of sheriff cars?) the guard told us of a single pump about another 12+ miles down the road. The forest road was beautiful, winding through campgrounds gave the hope that there must be fuel close by. There just MUST BE!

Finally there it was, Ponderosa. A single above ground tank and pump with no cover, pump and pulley fully exposed presented with a general store, bar, restaurant. Entering the host said, "I'll turn it on for you but understand it's $5 a gallon." Yah, okay. We need gas so fueled up we had a quick burger and headed out again, all the while being treated like one of the family - the hostess was like an obnoxious sister, complete with a slap upside the head for silly comments.

Departing the station with full tanks and tummies, we thought we were ready for the final 60 miles to a bed, only to come across simply the windiest, twistiest road ever. Imagine 40+ miles of nothing more than 2nd gear, back and forth and back and forth and back and forth and back and forth and back and forth and back and forth . . . . . 40 miles!

Jeff, a much more advanced rider than I, had to stop and take break. Nothing but a huge grin on his face and commenting, "oh my god! I can't believe this! It just won't stop!" Then another 20 miles. This continued down the 190 for the better part of an hour, until smoothing out as we approached Porterville and our home for the night.

Checked into the best western and out to the pool, we were just too bagged to do laundry or much else 'sept'n than this entry, eat some pizza (never again) and crash. Tomorrow, another long 300+ mile day to reach???