Aug. 31st - Day 17

Okay, agian not much to really get excited about here as this was a full day off. First, a view from our room. We arrived yesterday fairly early and ready for relaxation. Carson City is the capital of Nevada but really seems to be struggling business wise as there were quite a few businesses closed down, included a large shopping center anchor called Gottshalks (or something like that). Across the street was a big, new looking hotel casino that has halted consruction, apparently some 9 years ago. Owner's son in some kind of murder thingy, but not a concern of ours.

Sunday night we wandered over to Red's BBQ for a pretty decent dinner. Great decor and 101 beers on tap to choose from. Lee (Choco) if you are reading this, it would be home for you for at least a week or two! They were even so great as to keep my sun glasses that I forgot. As I approached the door, just before opening, a girl came out and said, "you're here for your glasses aren't you? The servers were all commenting that it wash crappy you forgot them." Hey, $13 buck for shades is a big deal!?

Anywho, we just chilled out, had a late breakfast in the hotel, spent several hours planning our route for the coming days, called people in Oregon and warned we'd be passing through, then killed several hours by going to a matinee. It was a choice of District 9 or GI Joe. We chose D9. Quite a wierd movie, shot 1/2 in documentary / Blair Witch style, all about an alien space ship that sets to hover over Johannesburg for 20+ years. Not the best flick to see, but not bad.

Afterwards we figured we'd use our coupons for the casino and spent all of $20 on food, video poker and such. Jeff won around $40 so he's buying breakfast in the morning. Headed to the room and watched a little Bait Car on TV. Some people are just not thinking.

Nice relaxing day off, good night all!

Aug 30th - Day 16

We slept in a little and lazily hit the road around 8:30 AM, continuing on the 395 North heading for Lake Tahoe. Pretty simple and pretty stuff here, over the Monitor Pass at 8314 ft and Luther Pass ast 7735 we approached the district of South Lake Tahoe and could see we were in a playground with money and tourists. The first section of road was a constant 35 with a ton of traffic as some of the most scenic view points in this area were clogged with spectators (us included).

After a stop at one view point, getting a good look at the S part of the lake, we ditched the gloves and decided to take our time and keep the cameras at the ready. A steady pace of small towns with ski shops, bike rentals, camp grounds, cabins, view points, bicyclists and campers kept our attention on break lights and quick turners (alot of malfunctioning signal lights here as most people DON'T SIGNAL).

Coming around the N end, we stopped again for the incredible views of the pristine clear blue waters and large, round rock shore lines where the breakers washed up foamy white. Just down the road, a full beach area and a ton of cars parked all over as people headed to enjoy their day.

There are many times when I curse having my large camera bag on my back the entire time, but then, there are times when having the lenses and remote trigger that allows me to actually document that we were here. Yes, there are usually a ton of people who either ask or offer to have or take a picture, but sometimes, some moments there is no one around.

This was great moment in time, to just chill for a few minutes where Jeff & I reflected on the desert valleys, mesas, mountains and everything in between to appreciate the beauty of Lake Tahoe. Definitly a place to drive through, especially seeing some of the multi-million $$ homes in the 5000 sqft range. I even witnessed a realtor putting out her open house sign around noon on Sunday. Thinking about a quick stop to check it out the thought passed quicker than a mile under our route.

Glancing down, it's now 20 miles to Carson City and a well deserved break. Even though we booked online for reduced rates, we quickly learned that there are a ton of cheap hotels in Carson City. We should have booked across the street at the Plaza Motel, which offered no casino, a pool, wi-fi, laundry and $49/weeknights. Lesson learned. Tomorrow will be casual. Maybe I'll post a pic of the view from our room, but that's about it.

Planning begins for the next 4 day stretch, which will be some 300+ mile days to reach Newport in a decent amount of time to hook up with Keith & Jaylene, then up to Tim's in Vancouver, WA for a much needed oil change. Talk to you again soon.

Just a little note, we've covered over 5000 miles so far, with around another 2000+ to come. I picked up a map of the Western US which will allow me to detail the whole thing. That will have to wait until I get home, but if you are ever thinking of traveling through these states, I'd be happy to share some suggestions. But wait, I'm not done yet. Time for a nap I think.

Aug 29th - Day 15

Ah, waking up at 5:45 in Porterville - nothing exciting really. Actually, I'm quite amazed that my sleep has been fairly good considering I'm waking up in a strange bed, strange room and strange city most every day. When I do get home, I wonder if I'll wake up, get ready and jump on the bike before I know what I'm doing?

We were joined by some firefighting crews at breakfast just before heading out on a 320 mile day, making good time North towards a small town / dot called Walker, just a few miles below Coleville, CA. Heading N on the 65, we passed through Exeter and switched over to the 245 at Woodlake. What began as a meandering road through the country, looking over dry golden fields with a distant mountain backdrop, quickly turned into another gem of gorgeous black top, twisting back and forth into the low level hills and valleys of the Sierra Nevada Mtns.


We stopped a few times to make sure we were on the right track, then rounding a corner came across this little bar in the middle of - nothing - It's amazing to find places like this when you definitely don't expect it. Continuing deeper into the dense brush, we emerged at the 180, taking us West towards Fresno. Getting closer and closer to dense population we aimed to the 41 North with Oakhurst in our sites. This was boring and painful riding as the traffic was busy and the heat was coming on.


A quick bite at Grandma's Dinner (while watching a program on the best steak houses that serve - and people eat - 72 oz steaks!) then we headed out on the 49 towards Mariposa and Coulterville. Kept seeing signs (sorry, no pics of them) of Hornitos 12 miles and La Grange 8 miles, giving a shout out to Tequila and ZZ Top accordingly.

We hit a side road at Coulterville taking us into some wonderful sweeping and twisting roads again pulling out at Don Pedro Lake. We were now the envious ones watching the boats and people playing in the waters below as we downed water and gaulked at the temp gauge.

Getting back to it, we still had over 80 miles to cover and it was now late in the afternoon. Passing through Sonora on the 108 heading around Yosemite we started to enjoy a declining temperature but struggled with fatigue. I had downed a '5 hour Energy' at the last location and found it really helped while Jeff was having difficulty with a plugged ear, heat strain and uninteresting roads behind slower than posted traffic. As we approached the Sonora Pass at 9625 ft, the road got quite interesting again. Probably one of the most technical sections with 10% declines over 10 mp almost vertical corners, blind dips and whoop-te-do's, combined with stunning scenery and campgrounds left and right.

The road mellowed as we approach the left turn on the 395 N, rounding a corner was a sign reading "Watch for Helicopter Debris - Absolutely No Stopping", then opening to a mountain top military base. Just 15 more miles to bed!


Finally, with 4.4 still showing on the GPS was our home for the night, the Toiyabe Motel. A great little 11 room place owned by Sam. We quickly got beer, gas and water for the next day, rushing back to get a meal at Walker Burger, the only place open until 8PM - basically a road side burger shack with a great little garden area out back. Simply scrumptious strawberry milkshake!







Relaxing and route planning in the evening, we had a nice visit with a young couple from Australia doing a month on both the East & West coast. Tomorrow brings a short day (129 miles) and a relaxing ride around Lake Tahoe, with a day off in Carson City. Why Carson? Amazingly, all the little towns in the area are 2x the price for hotels. Night ya'll!

Aug 28 - Day 14

So, here comes Death Valley. Up early and in for our breakfast we hit the road from Pahrump by just after 7:00AM and it was just about 24 degrees. On the 190 we came up on Stovepipe Wells, where the indication for altitude was pretty simple, 0! Just to the left was this desert resort, and further down the road in Furnace Creek (great names) was a camp grounds. Coming into this valley the temp began climbing steadily but it was a different heat, like that kind that wafts over your face as you open a kiln to check your pottery. Traveling along the mountain base we finally turned to cross the long flat area, actually seeing a sign reading, "-150 below sea level". Before long we came across some sand dunes in the distance and had to brave a stop to get a few images. It's around 8:45AM now and reading 33 on the gauge. Pushing forward we started to climb again with road signs warning about dips - ya dips. Like a roller coaster or a moto cross track, the road followed along as we went up and down. Oh ya, climbing - we went up to 5000 ft above, then back down to 0, all within 45 minutes or less.

The final stretch across barren land bringing us to Panamint Springs (originally settled by a cousin of Buffalo Bill) for gas. The attendant was none to shy to mentioned that he envied us on our ride.

From here we had a boring stretch climbing back to some sort of civilization, down a blah blah stretch on the 395 South until turning off on the 41 to cross the Sequia Range. What a change!

Within 15 minutes we went from 36+ heat and dry, desert lands to a mountain road that wound deeper and deeper into a Walt Disney land full of green and brown, cooler temps and tons of critters running across the road. Finally reaching a summit, we paused and met a couple riding up our path down. Apparently, 6 weeks prior some friends of theirs tried to do the route but it was blocked with too much snow. That's like July! It was beautiful for us though.

Rolling down through twisting canyons the road surface improved (a little bumpy from mountain abuse) and now it was more of a concern for gas. Two bars, then one and nothing in sight or on the map. We even ran into another guy who had ran out. Giggling, there was nothing we could do but push on. Turning in at a time share dude ranch (full of sheriff cars?) the guard told us of a single pump about another 12+ miles down the road. The forest road was beautiful, winding through campgrounds gave the hope that there must be fuel close by. There just MUST BE!

Finally there it was, Ponderosa. A single above ground tank and pump with no cover, pump and pulley fully exposed presented with a general store, bar, restaurant. Entering the host said, "I'll turn it on for you but understand it's $5 a gallon." Yah, okay. We need gas so fueled up we had a quick burger and headed out again, all the while being treated like one of the family - the hostess was like an obnoxious sister, complete with a slap upside the head for silly comments.

Departing the station with full tanks and tummies, we thought we were ready for the final 60 miles to a bed, only to come across simply the windiest, twistiest road ever. Imagine 40+ miles of nothing more than 2nd gear, back and forth and back and forth and back and forth and back and forth and back and forth and back and forth . . . . . 40 miles!

Jeff, a much more advanced rider than I, had to stop and take break. Nothing but a huge grin on his face and commenting, "oh my god! I can't believe this! It just won't stop!" Then another 20 miles. This continued down the 190 for the better part of an hour, until smoothing out as we approached Porterville and our home for the night.

Checked into the best western and out to the pool, we were just too bagged to do laundry or much else 'sept'n than this entry, eat some pizza (never again) and crash. Tomorrow, another long 300+ mile day to reach???

Aug 27 - Day 13

What can I say, except we knew today was a short but hot day. How hot? Real Hot! Dam Hot! It was hot, okay. We took off from St. George by 8:15 hitting nothing but slab for 2 hours. Jeff was feeling something funny with his new tires, but after a while they broke in and all was good. We turned off to head down by Lake Mead and Logandale. What lake? It's so dried up that the lady flagger at the construction zone commented that she used to be able to see it from her home but not this year. Dry and drained.

We continued through the desert region, finding nothing of real interest unitl rounding a corner and coming across an oasis. Henderson, or the high end residential area of it. We hit the first gas we could find and decided, as it was such a short day that we'd do a quick trip to see Hoover dam.

That's a big place, and when they finish that bypass road and bridge it'll be even granderer. By now temp gauges were in the 38 range so we b-lined it for Pahrump. Of course we had to endure another 1/2 hour of freeway before finally heading out the 45 mile stretch. Long, hot and boring we counted down the miles. Even hitting the outskirts, it was heaven to finally see the Best Western sign. This is a small, gambling, retirement town that has some potential for growth.

Checked in, then went for gas and beer. Upon returning we noticed a blast from our past sitting i the lot. The General Lee - or a distant relative. They rebuilt her from scratch and still have more to do, but it was a great site none the less. They were nice enough to allow me to try the classic Bo & Luke entry. Ya, no - not even if it was mine. Finally it was pool time. A few beers and dips and the heat was stayed. Dinner in the casino / lounge as it was Karaoke & Ladies night - just not our scene. Off to sleep soon as we've got 329 miles through Death Valley tomorrow.

Until then.

Aug. 26 - Day 12

Not much to say, other than "Yah, a day off!" Jeff headed out to get new tires on his bike while I went in search of a laundry mat. Returnig with clean clothes and time to do some photo updates (I hope y'all appreciate that) I did some recanting of days gone by. We had a quick bite of lunch and planned out our next three days. From here, we'll head to Pahrump, NV. Then up early to beat the heat and pass through Death Valley to Exeter, CA and finally up to Bridgeport. We've decided to bypass Yosimite in favour of some outstanding roads and avoiding park traffic and more park fees. Brigeport is just South of Reno, where we're not sure what we'll do up there, as we're sticking to 4 days of riding and one day off (does a body good).

One shot for you, to see how tough we have it. Not a bad little hotel but we've decided to hunt for Best Western's the rest of the way, with a new 'preferred membership' waiting for us in Pahrump (reminds me of the Little Drummer Boy; Pahrump pa pum pum!)

By the way, a few call outs:

- Fay Myer in Denver, CO: excellent price and service on my new tires, although the sales people in the gear section sucked old sweaters.

- Dillon Inn, Dillon: owner was so accommodating and the venue was perfect.

- Best Western in Montrose: $20 off second night stay and a hot breakfast included, plus a bike wash area and rags.

Aug. 25 - Day 11

Up early, before the sun we had a quick banana breakfast. The next bit of civilization would be Hanksville, more than 139 miles across plains and hills. Fueled up and stocked with water we hit the road around 7:20 on the 261 state hwy.

It felt the road was swalled up by the mountain. As we approached this huge bluff, there was still no visible sign of where it went. Only until you came right up on it was the illusion revealed with a goat trail, gravel road that switched back up more than 800 feet in less than a 1/4 mile. Unbeilevable if I hadn't been there in person. We three were definitly in awe of the veiw of The Valley of the Gods from top.

As we continued through Fry Canyon the valleys again opened and closed. It was desolate. Darren spotted a great spot for a quick break and a photo op, just after I saw Jacob's Chair (a massive Butte in the distance). We took some shots and rehydrated, knowing that breakfast was still hours away. It was tuff to keep going, as it's tough to keep writing as every long distance turn brought another incredible photo opp. We agreed, "okay, no more stopping" but each time we did we all agreed it was worth it. Just more and more!

We crossed a bridge over a dried up river, rounding to an oasis of jade green - a distant branch of Lake Powel. We continued winding up another canyon (40 mp corners in the middle of nowhere) until a final plateau. Now only 35 miles of long, straight "patrolled" roads to Hanksville. Once there it was gas and a food stop at Bonnie's. Ahh, breakfast at last.

Fueled and fed we pushed through some basic areas, then came across a slow moving herd of Harely riders. Support vehicle in the back was full of luggage, we contined to pass as the leader flew a French flag. "Oh, I see. A harley tour through the Utah country side". I'm sure they saw us go by and thought, "look, real bikers and they carry their own gear".

We hit the turn off at Torrey, and it was an unwelcome moment. Darren would turn off here and head his way back North for his 2100 km trip back to Saskatoon. Man it sucks loosing a good traveling buddy, especially one who helped arrange the whole reason. A good solid hug and we were off in our own directions.

Jeff & I continued to press on to St. George, passing through monster rain (hurt like being shot with pellets), over the Boulder Mtn Park, then down the other side where the heat came again, drying us out and warming us back up. On through Capital Reef park, for a mix of canyons, valley, passes and ranges. Through Bryce Canyon NP with it's contrasting orange cliffs, green pines and blues skies. Absolutely no photo retouching needed. Then on to Zion. Zion was cool ($12 ea to go) and we knew it would be full of images, so off came the gloves and the camera went around the neck. Park speed was 30, which you can't exceed due to winding roads, so we road and clicked all the way. At the end of the park it was tourist central with Zion this and Zion that. We wanted out and wanted a room with a pool. We came out and finally hit Washington, UT, with brand new 6 lane black top all the way in. Watched the GPS count down the miles & time to arrival (7,6,5,4,3,2,1!). Checked in, dropped the gear, got gas, got beer, got changed and splashed down.

Even the VFRs got a veiw of the pool. With a day off tomorrow, this was all worth it!

Aug. 24 - Day 10

We were up early but needed to attend to a few things before departing. Miguel took his leave and headed home while we took a quick trip to the local dealer to tend to a nail in Jeff's tire, pick up some new rain gear for Darren and I was looking at rain gloves. All things done and back to the room, it had been raining since 6:00AM. There was a good hope for the day as we were headed for Utah and the promise of hot days and clear skies.

Leaving Montrose around 10:30 was much later than planned but we only had a 280 mile day, we headed out on the 50 North, then to turn SW and S towards the Utah State line via the 141. As we cleared the main highway, the skies opened and the temperature she did climb, calling for a quick stop to de-layer. From here it was an entry into back canyon roads and desolate homesteads. The canyons grew around us providing some fantastic scenery. Taking a right we weren't absolute about we headed out with the hopes of a gas station to come. Surprise as we came across one lonely store in Bedrock. A pump, a store and an outhouse. That's it. It was good enough for a break as we were destined for Mexican Hat in the South East corner of Utah.

We were passing through Manti la Sal National Forest, rambling down roads that followed the riverbends and canyons formed so many years ago. Incredible! The road just wound through this canyon. One minute we were up above on the flats, then decended into the dry river bed. Around a corner and there appears an adobe style, modern resort with what looked like a golf course in the back (lush and green), but that was it, no town. Then it was gone. Was it real?

We proceeded and finally took a break at a 20 mp corner that overlooked an amazine section, with a steep drop and the reminants of a cart path, built into the mountain. The story goes, it was a water supply trail for a hydrolic mining operation in 1881. The mine produced no gold and went 'under' in less than 2 years.






Taking our views we pushed on knowing we still had many miles ahead. Coming out at La Sal Junction we were headed South, but not before rounding the first corner and seeing Wilson's arch, with an all new residential development around. Nice views, but you'd be having tourists looking at you everyday. I'm happy living in the Okanagan and looking in other people's back yards. It's nice traveling with 3 or 4 but it's also tough seeing so many things and not stopping every 15 minutes. Have to find a left handed camera to take pictures while riding. We stopped for a quick bite in Montecello, all the while watching our speed. Every town had a sherriff, leaning against their car, just wishing we'd break it. Not us, no sir!

Blanding was the last form of civilization we saw as we entered what was an incredible, desert type valley. Everywhere you look were messa and butes, balancing rocks, disappearing horizons and no clue where the road was taking us. For miles there was no traffic. Feeling very desolate.

I kept thinking in my helmet, "This is so much to take in, but my god it feels like the end of the world. What did the road builders and cowboys do to keep it together? We felt like we were on a flat, when the road would continue to wind down into further depths, while the GPS said only 12 miles left. Left to what? Coming around a corner, everything opened up again and there was this lonely sign, "Valley of the Gods". Breaks on and full stop. Wholly!

2 miles left and I felt like I was riding my iron horse into the desolate western town, when out of no where appears this little town. Two motels and a very modern gas station. Our home for the night, the Hat Rock Inn, Mexican Hat, Utah. We did our usual; gassed up, grabbed beer, got to the room, showered and relaxed on the back porch. Dinner that night would be a swigging steak. An 18 oz rib eye we split. Swigging Steak: 1/2 barrel with mesquite wood with a large grilling rack suspended on two chains that continuously swings over the flames. Complemented with no flavour beans, small salad and Texas toast. We each had two beer and the bill - $92. We were paying full tourist pop. Eh? It was an experience.

Back to the room, 1 more beer and off to bed. A long 420 mile day awaits us.

Aug. 23 - Day 9

We agreed that today, being a shorter day, we'd start out a little later than usual. After a great breakfast included at the Best Western, we looked over the maps and talked about the yellow slip under our door, "Want to stay an extra night? Second night only $69!". Seeing as our plan to end up in Naturtia, which other than the silver loop was only 2 hours away, we decided to keep our rooms, leave our gear and just enjoy the 264 mile day.

We headed SE for Ouray and Silverton, part of the Million $$ hwy. Great scenery and changing weather combined with tight twisting roads and sprawling stretches, it was sight to behold. Not too much though as you must keep your eye on the road or else dropping off the edge of the mountain. Rain gear came on, off, on, off, on then off when we arrived in Durango for Lunch at a little hidden cafe (special thanks to Migues for knowing all the greatest places for good eats). Leaving around 12:45 we stopped for gas in Mancos and began our journey Northward to return to Montrose.

A mix of long, country roads and mellow twisties were complemented by massive mountain ranges in the distance and a couple more showers. We paused at the top of Lizard Pass for a quick break before b-lining back to Montrose.

We passed the turn to Teluride and headed for our turn off at Placerville, across to Ridgeway and our final stretch home. Between Ridgeway and Montrose, it was wet. Real wet. But rather than stopping for rain gear again we pressed on to push through the mountain shower. Our decision was rewarded with sunshine the last 20 miles which dried us out nicely.

Arriving back to the hotel, it wasn't more than 5 minutes and the room phone rings. Jeff, one of the BC riders whom was also taking a biking holiday, had lost his wallet (driver's licence, cash and credit cards) somewhere in Cortez, CO. Hearing this, without a thought I told him to get here, share a room and we'll deal with it. He has $200 cash. New cards are on their way to meet us on Tuesday when we hit St. George, Utah, plus a quick transfer of $$ from home. Cards canceled and re-ordered, there wasn't a moment of depression, just thankfulness of a friendly voice and a plan to move forward to. Of course, when he pulled in at 8 this evening, we greated him with a cold beer and some left overs from our dinner.

Tomorrow we'll head for Mexican Hat. A fairly short day but through some promising roads. From there we'll have a long, 421 mile day to St. George, Utah, passing through Capital Reef National Park and the recognized "Stairway", to Bryce Canyon, then on through Zion - one of the must do areas I commited to. It will be long and full of ???, but as per my plans, I'll be taking Wednesday off to plan for the entrance to California, do some laundry and put things into perspective. This is a monumentus undertaking. Living out of two saddle baggs and understanding what I need, don't need and must remember for the next time. Next time?

Aug. 22 - Day 8

Met with Darren & Miguel in the parking lot and departed the hotel at 7:15AM with fond fairwells from many riders. The bonds of friendship from old and new members showed as it was solid hugs and best wishes for everyone that day.

We set out for Montrose, CO, passing through Vail then down the 24 for breakfast in Leadville at the Golden Donkey. When ordering a simple 2 egg breakfast our server commented, "okay, I'm not saying you're old but if you order this from the senior's menu it'll save a few bucks". Well that just fueled it for them to hassle me. I said, it must be the grey in my gotee.

After a great little breakfast we headed out for Independance Pass, through Aspen. There's no money there . . . cha! We saw a guy speaking Italian at the gas station, riding what we figured was a $6000 road bike. From there, on through Carbondale with a wicked ride on a great road trying to keep up with a local on a KTM. Best ride easily! Stopped in Paonia for lunch at a little dinner. Great chicken and rice soup and a quick sandwich. One more fuel stop (averaging 3/day) and Miguel needed batteries for his cam corder to record ride sections. Unknowingly he forgot his card there and had to cancel it later.

From there it was back roads heading for the infamous Black Canyon Road. Of course we hit a little heavy traffic on the way in the form of cattle - a neighbour was moving his herd from one pasture to another. As we rolled through the sound of the V4 kept them trotting, and even scarred the s#!t out of one.

Agian, another astonishing find. Miguel, a resident of Colorado Springs and seasoned travelor through all these states, claims this as his favourite all time road. Darren got all excited and took off out in front. A stop 2/3 through revealed a huge grin on everyone's face. From there, it was another 1.5 hours to the Best Western in Montrose.

We checked in, cleaned up, had a few beers and hit a local Italian place called "Garlic Mike's". Nice place but we ordered before thinking. A great rule to remember "You can't eat big meals after a long ride day". I barely touched 1/4 of my meal and just couldn't eat any more. A combination of the ride, the cold lingering and leaving the altitude, we paid the bill and called it a night. Tomorrow brings the Million $$$ hwy and the Silver Road loop. Looking forward to getting a good night sleep - we'll see what happens.

Aug. 21 - Day 7

Friday . . . my day off!
Slept in till 7. Still not sleeping all that well as I'm really feeling the affect of this cold plus the high altitude. Rolled down to the lobby and had a coffe with some others. A few decided to walk up to the Apolusa Cafe for some breakfast so, 45 min. later we did a brisk 3/4 mile walk up around the resevoir to a neet little place with a bar in the basement (no windows, one exit). The server was a little cocky and put Craig in his place right off. Funny, you had to be there.

A casual saunter back to the hotel, Craig & I did a little stroll around the area, picking up the money order to pay my 'economic contribution' to the Colorado law enforcement and see what's around. Walking into Office Max I found a great, laminated map of Colorado which has come in very handy, as well as a map of the Western US states which I'll be plotting my entire journey on to reflect on this epic journey.

Up the road to the local market and picked up some losenges, vitamin C and plenty of water. Returning to the room, took a nap and visited with remaining riders in the parking lot. Nothing to exciting here.

Friday evening we all decided to simply order pizza and help everyone finish off reminent beer in the parking lot, confirming who was leaving when and in what direction. It was only 1 beer and 1 pc of pizza for me, heading to bed by 9:30 to try and get some quality sleep. We'll see how that goes.

Aug. 20 - Day 6

Ride Day!
Everyone came out to the parking lot of the Dillon Inn for a parking lot breakfast. Excellent! Though the potatoes had a bit of a different spice, what a great way to bring everyone together before a great day of riding. One by one, two by two they all arrived and parked in the perfect area for staging the bikes. More and more, they just kept coming. Though we had a count of 61 for the registration the final number of VFR's was 46. All lined up in a row with a beautiful mountain backdrop.

A quick briefing and we left the parking lot at 9:10, all on different routes. We had 7 different ride groups to keep the number of riders to a good level.

Our first stop en route was the top of Loveland Pass. Taking us through Keystone and some nice switchbacks, we climbed quite quickly from 9111 feet to over 11,000. Everyone was feeling the affects of high alltitude with shortness of breat and tight throates. Even the bikes were running leaner with low idle speads.

I was with the intermediate / photo tour headed towards Central City. A quaint little town that was taken over by gambling. 20 mph through the streets and then back to the mountain climb up to Estes Park the Rocky Mountain National Park.

Okay, I took one for the team. Coming around a corner, we were stuck behind a semi and a truck doing 25 in a 45 zone. After a few minutes our ride leader decided to pass. The 'Safe to Pass' signal came for every following rider and as I was sweeper (the last position to ensure everyone comes through) I was the last to come through. I had one quick moment of hesitation then proceeded to follow.

Just as I cleared the semi cab I glanced up to see a car coming in the distance. A State Patrol Car.
As he went by, the lights came on. I knew it would really suck if everyone got pulled over so I proceeded to slow and pull over at the first safe spot. The officer approached and said "I need to issue you a citation for passing on a double yellow. By the way do you know those other guys?" Then asked, "How is your trip from Canada?". A quick little chit chat and he went back to the car to write me up. 15 minutes later I was off and caught up with the group. Everyone came and asked, but I was not interested in talking about it at that time. Later, at lunch I let them in on the $113 fine - no later everyone pitched in money so it only cost me $20. Money order mailed and all is fine.

When we finished in Estes we headed for the park. What an incredible climb. One quick section was a 1000' drop on both sides for about 100 yards, with nothing but long distance views in each direction. Continuing the climb we passed tons of spectators looking at the herd of elk. Quite incredible.

It was a long day and dealing with the high altitude and a cold, I just wanted (needed) to get home. Arriving back at the Dillon Inn at 5:30, I had just enough time to shower, gather together the prizes and get down to the pub for the dinner.

Most everyone was on the same schedule, but even with the hustle, we were there and eating at 7:00. A great meal and tons of discussion, laughs, day stories and the like. Door prized drawn and a surprise for me. Derek & Tammy from Vancouver, whom rode down the whole way with us an helped with various little details (sign up board, organizing people, my laundry) presented me with a T-shirt signed by everyone at the meet. What an incredible touch.

All in all, it was a great day and everyone agreed it was a wonderful event.
Now, I get Friday off and so much more to come

Aug. 19 - Day 5

Today was always designated as a 'bonus' day to get things done, relax, ride around and prepare all the items for the evening to come. The trip down took a tole on my 1 year old tires and they needed to be replaced, which is something I was expecting but not till California.

Darren made a few calls into Denver the night before and all was arranged. I took off from Dillon around 9:00AM and arrived at the Fay Myer dealership just after 10. Amazingly, they had my bike in right off. A big shout out to the service tech Bob, but a thumbs down to the staff in the parts and gear area. 3 times I asked for some help and was told, "yah, all that stuff is right over there, just find what ya like and bring it on up." Finally a young woman took the time to help me with the rain gear I needed to pick up for Tim.

50 minutes later and Bob came to let me know everything was done. Back on the road and I arrived at the Dillon in just minutes after 1:00. While away, some busy little helpers put all the swag bags together just perfectly.

Arrangements for everyone to pick up the goodies travelled fast and within 2 hours, 85% of the goods were out, to everyone's satisfaction. A few beers, some good conversation and much anticipation for the day to come.

But alas, the high elevation took it's toll and the start of a rather annoying cold was on the horizon. Nothing was going to hold me back from the Thursday, the main ride day, the day we all came here for.

Aug. 18th - Day 4

Though grumpy because I make everyone get up for early starts, we're all eager to get going as this is our last day to our destination. Departed Riverton, WY at 6:45 for what promises to be a long day of straight roads, but the shortest day in miles yet. We get out and on the road to a long flat desert area, chilly as all heck (temp gauge reading 0) for the first 2 hours. Just out in the middle of nowhere. I can imagine the cowboys of old riding around these areas, shivering through the nights and sweating out the days.

Not much to say, other than a few bluffs, mesas and lots of open land. We made Rawlins, WY for breakfast at 9:00. Fueled and fed we again set out for more long roads. As we came off the interstate (one of very few short runs) there's a guy standing just off the exit rampl, holding up a map and poised beside a VFR. He waves his arms knowing that he's run into a crew heading to the same place.

When we stopped for a break, we all introduced and welcomed him to our crew. While on the rest, I peaked around a corner. Low and behold I was attacked and mauled by an angry grizzly that hadn't before tasted Canadian beef. Luckily I was wearing my gear and was able to escape without injury. The bear is complaining cause I don't write or call.

Down we went, stopping in Walden were we split in two groups. One on the original route and the rest of us on a 'Plan B' route I had done, which cut 35 miles / almost 1 hours off travel time.

We pulled into Silverthorne and Dillon at 2:20PM. Hugging and bumping that we had arrived and for the next four days - it's time to enjoy life and watch as more and more show up. So now everyone gets a day off riding - everyone but me. I've worn down my tires to a point that wouldn't be safe to proceed on the group rides on Thursday, so tomorrow morning I'll be heading out for Denver at 8 to a Honda dealer for new tires to be mounted. 1+ hour in, who knows how long for the work and then return. We spoke to a rep and explainded the situation. He assured us that They can fit me in and get me out quick - we'll see.

There are about 15 of us in town now, heading for the Red Mountain Grill for an informal dinner.
I'll let you know about Denver tomorrow, now it's time to relax, smile more and appreciate what I am on. This is just incredible. I'll be able to read this myself in months gone bye and remember just how blessed I am.

Cheers,
Tony

Aug 17th - Day 3

We departed from the Super 8 in Columbus with renewed hope that the longest day was now behind us. No wrong turns this time as we headed for the Beartooth Pass, just out of Red Lodge. The road out was a real treat. Long sweeping curves through beautiful country side, very little traffic and awesome music. We fueled up in Red Lodge and headed for the hills. Didn't make it more than 10 miles before I pulled over to add some layers. It was already getting chilly and we hadn't even started our climb.

Back and forth on a very tight road we climbed higher and higher. Stopping at one viewpoint for some images of just a captivating sight. It was just the beginning. So it's around 9:30 AM, the middle of August and here we're passing by all the vegitation covered in frost. Yes frost! The air got thinner and noticably more difficult to breath. Once on top, again stopping for pictures it was definitly the top of the world. I was looking over mountain ranges higher than I'd ever seen before. The official height? 11,500 feet! We passed through road construction and around 12 miles of gravel, partial gravel and slow going, but the decent only brought more wonderous valley roads, sweeping curves and appreciation for the planet we live on.

Then, even more treats! We turned left on the Cheif Joe Highway. I'll be brief and say, everyone agrees this was by far the most beautiful road -yes, even better than the previous two days. We're talk'n bout perfect pavement, meandering fields leading up to a climb through at least 20 switchbacks rated from 20 - 40 mph (posted speed). The top viewpoint revealed the curves and massive valled we just came through. Then, departing, just around the corner were these increadible red cliff canyons. We decended into Cody for lunch and proceeded to push through to

Riverton.

Memories of the roads past filled my mind as the road ahead was flat. We're talking about looking 20 miles into the distance and nothing but a straight road. So for the next 200 miles, it was head down, throttle on and get er done. We pulled into Riverton around 4:30, good time to wash the bikes and ourselves down, socialize a bit and have some dinner. Happy to say, I go the worst meal of my trip out of the way. Even when I sent the prime rib back, it came to me again, bloody rare and pan grilled. Anywho, doesn't count for snot.

We're all feeling tired and everyone smiles and thanks me when I tell them, they all get Wed. off!

Aug. 16 - Day 2

Okay, so the guys want to give me a new name -- "U-turn Tony". The GPS lady has sent me on 3 little misshaps. I figured out real quick why, we had a little talk (the GPS lady) and we are on good speaking terms not.

Departed from Orofino at 6:30 AM, stopping in Syringa for breakfast around 8:30. The Lolo pass has some road repair going on but nothing too major - what a wonderful road. Long sweeping curves the whole way, following along a the Clearwater River with lush mountians on all sides. At the exit we took another long break as we had to wait for one of our team to deal with the local sherriff. He mistook the truck with a canopy as a tourist and decided to pass on a double solid. The officer asked, "so, are you having a case of the stupids?". $140 later and he caught up with us for gas, liquid and a snack.

Leaving Lolo we headed up the highway and were on a mission to hit a brewpub for lunch. Along the way, I made the decision to stop and dawn the rain gear. Now some of the team grumbled and if it was for not I'd be buying beer. Well, for not more than 2 miles and we dealt with 6 hours of rain. Landing in Helena for lunch we ate quick and watched the rain come down. I was soaked from the next 2 hours of rainy highways. Hitting the top of the pass the temp gauge was at 7. Again, hockey player weather.

As we came down the other side, with more than 150 miles to go, slowly the temp came up and the miles counted down. Beautiful back country with black top to match, even with the storm system it was still something to behold. Pictures were limited due to the massive amount of rain and cold.

Arrived in Columbus, MT around 8:30PM (12 hours of riding / 2 hours of stopping), checked in and began drying out the baggage and doing some laundry. Another 2 riders (Alberta & Saskatchewan) have joined us so we'll be 11 bikes leaving in the morning. It'll be another early day with around 321 miles (460 km) over the Bearclaw pass, which had previous reports of fresh snow! Hope to arrive in Riverton much earlier allowing for a little more leisure time.

As I was riding along, through the cold rain, I couldn't help but think that this is pure joy. How do you come across such a group of outstanding people, who from all over the country will travel thousands of miles to meet, ride together, share laughs and form such strong bonds - all brought together through ownership of a motorcycle. This is worth everything.

Life is good. I am blessed, but I am tired and will do it all again in 7 hours.
Until tomorrow

Aug. 15th - Day 1

What an incredible day. Even though we started out 45 minutes later than planned, everyone agreed that hey, we're on holidays and make our own time. Left Lake Country uneventful, though chilly. Temperature gauge read 8 degrees at first. Like a hockey player --- Buuurrr - eh!

Crossed the border no problem and made our way quickly to Omak. Met up with 3 more riders making our crew a total of 7 (one is a 2 up) on our journey to Orofino. A quick little argument with the GPS unit and we reached an understanding. Kept us on route perfectly.

Next big stop was the Grand Coulee Dam. Dam that's a big Dam! Stopped at a little Mexican place and had it all to our selves. I knew better and ordered small. Very tasty and everyone agreed it was a good choice. Especially as we watched 4 police cars go in different directions and even stop someone right there. Not us, no way. We don't exceed the limit ;-)

Our journey South East, bypassing Spokane, was so nice. Temperature was 18 - 20 the whole way down, partly cloudy and just a few cross breezes. Black as black - black top and golden wheat fields and a few deer bounding in the distance. The straights were long and boring with a few sudden 40 mile corners for fun.

Then, we came up on Lewiston and were in awe of the Old Spiral Hwy (pics to follow when I learn how). You'll have to google it and find out for now. Basically, it's a twisted road that you can't tell which way it goes until you ride it. Just full of corners. Trust me, Once you see it you'll call me names.

From there, it was a nice 40 mile drive to Orofino along the Clearwater river. Nice and cool, winding along at a nice pace.

Well, we're washed and on the second beer. The motel offers a $13 cook your own 15 oz. New York steak. It's 7:45PM and we're up at 8 so that's it for today.

Tomorrow we're set to leave at 6, covering our longest distance at 770 km, covering the Lolo pass and entering Montana. We'll check in from Columbus at the Super 8.

Cheers,
Tony