Sept 8th - Day 25 (The End is Nigh)

Well, what began on Aug. 15th at an early hour some 25 days ago, looms on the horizon (through the fog) as the culmination of my adventure.


Up at 6:30 and packed by 7:15 I enjoyed a coffee and light breakfast with a non to active Lee. Seems he was feeling a little under today as I was energized from a great sleep and excellent previous day off. Final check and inspection that all zippers were zipped I headed out from Duvall just before 8AM through the fog.


After clearing Arlington on the 203 and Menzel Lk Rd, the fog lifted and blue skies appeared with promises kept for the whole route home. I nixed the rain jacket (nylon fly we'll call it) and felt a touch of the sun but the temp stayed at a comfortable 12-18 most of the way.


Passing Darrington I began to get glimpses of Mount Baker in the distance, with the fog clouds continuing to burn off. It looked so majestic and serene. Riding through the mix of wooded and farm fields I truly enjoyed every moment, but with typical glances in the side mirrors there was a slight feeling of solitude as this was the only time, the only day I was solo. I was so used to either following or leading with someone the entire time that I almost expected to see the single headlight of Jeff appearing in the distance. No matter, this as with all the other wondrous views was for me.

Pausing several times for photos, I lingered for a 15 minute break just after coming around the summit corner (plenty of new chip seal) and looked back at the sharp mountains I had just passed through. A great mix of roads and ideal conditions, the rest of the way my head filled with images past. I too look forward to reading this again from start to finish as I sift through the over 1000 images that will serve to remind me of what a blessed and excellent trip it has been.




A quick stop for lunch at 12:30 in Winthrop with it's old west street appeal, I headed for the final US stretch. Stopping in Omak for a fuel top off and the simple 40 mile jaunt to the border. The wait at customs took a little more than 1/2 hour with a very friendly and welcoming officer. He asked more questions about my trip and highlights than duty issues.



Still trying to avoid highway where ever possible, I quickly rode up to Burrowing Owl Winery for a view overlooking the S. Okanagan vineyards. First and only time I got stung by a wasp, little bugger got me just under my right cheek. At least it shows I can still feel. Passing through Summerland I was quite impressed with the progress of the Hwy 97 widening project, as it looks so much better and will provide safer and quicker passage to future South bound trips. Sometimes you just can't avoid a slab.




Just before the decent into Peachland, I again paused for a break and enjoyed the lake and valley view towards home. With everything experienced this trip, I still appreciate the beauty of where I live. Of course, add to that the absence of heavy rain and of course I was happy to be dry and warm on my final leg.







I pulled into my garage at just before 7PM. Just hanging my jacket and Crystal, not hearing the door or me, opened the door with a very surprised and welcoming look, "Welcome home Honey!" and she hugged her big, smelly husband with all the might that an 85lb person can.


Home. I honestly felt really good. So good that given different circumstances I could easily continue on. The travel rule of 4 days riding 1 day off really made everything (even the worst day) quite right. Of course, the bonus of having helpful hands along the way, a friendly home and garage (and laundry) to ride towards and all the incredible people who also own VFR's and participate in an online discussion group really helps too.


Now, it's time to relax, do laundry, clean the bike and start sifting through the images. I'll be tracing the entire route (by the way, final count was 6754 miles) on a Western US map with a summary of roads, hotels and places that are must see's for anyone else taking a trip. One more post to come. Of course I also need to start making plans for next year's meet. Not as long a trip, but none the less - a key part of great living.



Always have something (no matter what) to look forward too.

Never doubt yourself.

Trust in true friendship.

Know where you come from and dream of where you'll go.

Sept 7th - Day 24

To start off, let me say this, "Jeff, I know you had to get home but you MISSED OUT!".

Though the days at Keith's and Tim's were shorter, the bonus of Lee & Pauline having me for two evenings and taking all of Monday off really allowed me to revitalize, especially with the tour Lee took me on into Seattle and area.

We started the afternoon with a visit to the Taproom, a favourite of Lee's for the selection of 160+ beer on tap with seasonal rotating varieties. A sample rack of 4 - 6 oz glasses got things off to a good start, enjoying Tricerahops IPA- Dead Guy Ale - Pike's 2x IPA - Bunt Ale. All were different and delictable but the Bunt won out for the final full pint. Quite the huge place, with a massive curved bar, large open seating area and a pool room in the back that housed 3 sweet pool tables plus room for more.




With a light glow we walked over to Pike's Public Market to take in the architecture, culture (that would be the interesting mix of people) and the imense sensory overload of the shops, varieties and colours that the market offered. Of course we only saw a small portion as we had other places to visit. From here we went to the Chittaden Locks where it was packed with all sizes of boats and yachts moving from fresh to sea water. Plenty of large salmon jumping and friendly people all about.


We missed the opportunity to check out the world's largest building and tour of, at the Boeing assmebly plant but that will be handled on the next visit down. Timing was everything and with our tummy's growling we headed out to Mulkiteo for a great new experience.

It was the Diamond Knot Brewery & Pub for dinner and getting Stoned! Quite cool - like a fondeau only better and not messy. I ordered the tenderloin medallions, which came out raw and sizzling on a super heated flat stone. You proceed to add your sauce, beer and spices and cook it to your own liking right there. Fantastic with the Industrial IPA we enjoyed along side. Oh, and you get peanuts to de-shell onto the floor too, but not for peanuts, just add it to the bill, eh.

Our server, a 24 year old young lady who was sick of fine dining and a 3 week rookie, ended up convincing me that I needed a shirt to prove I got stoned. Of course the extra large was $2 more. Cheese & Rice! We decided to wrap up before getting to far out of hand. What a place though. Not grungy, just comfortable and great atmosphere. You even get to piss into a spent keg of Budweiser as they don't serve it here.

We headed back to Lee's for a final night-beer, tightening of the chain and confirming my route home tomorrow. Weather is calling for one, yes one clear day then more rain. 370 miles to make it to my starting point. It's almost coming to an end - but not yet . . . .

Sept 6th - Day 23 (The Worst Day)

Note: Due to the severe weather encountered, I apologize for no pictures here. Use your imagination.

Well, it started out knowing that we would hit rain. I wasn't able to plan a route with Sally so it was understood that this route was up to Jeff to get us the 234+ miles to Lee's place in Duvall. I had all the faith in him for the 4-5 hour endeavour.

We left Tim's with a big hug and faith in making it through. Heading up the interstate we branched off at the 503 bound for Cougar and the loop around Mt St. Helen. The 30 miles of the 503 were miserable as we were pummelled by driving rain which worked it's way into every nook, cranny, both sides of the visor making visibility really bad, fingers, toes and the dreaded crotch soaking! We pulled under an abandoned station. Decisions to make: do we turn back to the interstate, push on through Mt St Helens or get a room and wait it out - as we reviewed the map and Jeff's plans, it was off to St. Helens.

Pulling out the rain stopped and the sun came through, only to be a wave goodbye though. The rain got heavier and the temperature dropped to 6 on my gauge. I would lift my hand and squeeze my glove like a sponge watching the water drain, only to have it re saturate as I opened my fingers. We pulled into Randle for temporary shelter at a station and decided to push down the 12 to Morton (a town I recognized as where Craig & I had stayed some 3 years prior, returning from the PNW Newport meet). Here we gassed up and had a quick sandwich.

Jeff looked at me and said, "I think that was a mistake". Shivering I agreed with a grin but it was done and behind us. Visors cleaned and quick call to Lee informing him that we were still 138 miles away, we proceeded up Hwy 7 to Eatonville with a renewed plan to get there. Jeff was determined to keep us away from the interstate and the blowing sheets of rain of traffic. Though at this point, I could have argued the direct factor I kept the faith as we traveled on the 162 North. It wasn't until we went through Burnett, heading South on the 165 (oopps, wrong way - a move I was known for) for a couple of miles. At this point my GPS started to add miles rather than diminish. Stop. Map check and regrouping. Time to get there cause I was shivering and getting leg cramps from the prolonged temp and full drenching.

We passed through Buckley, heading for Enumclaw (wait till you read the next paragraph on this one) we continued through varying rain, sun, rain, driving rain and black fog. A mish mash of turns and roads finally brought us to the 169, overlooking the 18 above where I knew we 'wanted' to be. Stopping on the road side I waited to see how far Jeff would continue before noticing I was not there. Minutes later he returned and we were both frustrated and fatigued. He commented, "we need to stick to one GPS and stop chasing side roads." I asked if he was ready for the interstate now and I would follow the last 39 miles to just get there. Away we go and at 5:15 we pulled into Lee's garage, 9 hours to complete a 6 hour journey. I dismounted and found the notes from Lee to make ourselves at home, turning around to find Jeff still on his bike planning his final 3 hours to get home to Vancouver, WA. He as determined to get there and he was off.

I went in, put the clothes on to wash, had a hot shower and changed to dry duds. Ahhh, a beer in hand and MotoGP racing on TV I was getting the good feelings back in me. Around 7:30 Lee and his wife Pauline came home, greeting me like a brother. We kibitzed about the trip, then Pauline broke the news (noted from above).

Apparently, a TYPHOON had been reported hitting Enumclaw, causing power outages, down trees, property damage and extreme debris on several roads. We were riding right along side of this weather system, just missing the eye of damage by about 1/2 hour. Hindsight and a blessed hand that guided us through, providing some valued experience and lessons. Lessons that will be with me in the future that I will document in the summary to follow in a few days.

Relaxing at Lee's and thanking him for a 2 day layover with the promise of weather reports that Tuesday will bring sunshine and dry roads to travel the final 354 miles to home. A real home! No more loading the bags every morning, searching for laundry facilities and planning routes to new adventures. It will be time for recapping and documenting the entire trip.

Sept 5th - Day 22

After a great night sleep (and awesome dinner) we awoke around 7ish and slowly gathered ourselves together for the short jaunt to Vancouver, WA. Dawning our rain gear as the forecast called for our first encounter with wet stuff in weeks, we headed up the road to Lincoln City and a turn off at Otis as we took the 18 towards Portland. We weren't able to avoid some slabbing to make it over the Columbia, crossing into Washington.


We stopped at a small cafe for a bite, not having any moisture hit us yet. Exiting, it was still looking like blue sky trying to burn through the clouds so I made the decision to nix my jacket but keep the rain pants on (what was I thinking - obviously not thinking). Not more than a 1/2 hour down the road, the rain started up. We continued on and once looking down with Sally showing only 1 hour to our destination it was time to scrum up and push through.


Heavy rains, traffic and the worn plastic of my zip lock baggie (impromptu rain cover for the GPS) made visibility of lanes and turns a little tough. True to my nature I missed a lane and ended up taking us into an industrial area of Portland. Jeff, being ever so supportive pulled up and yelled through his helmet, "What are you turning for, we're still in Portland?!" Ya, I know, just another little side trip with Sally & I. Quickly we re-routed and headed back on the freeway, pulling into Tim & Cassie's neighbourhood within 30 minutes. Within another 30 minutes, the sky cleared the sun came out. A call from Keith also confirmed, had we waited until 11 to leave we would have had a dry ride the whole way. Eh? No big deal.

We were greeted with towels, hugs and beer! A quick change into dry clothes and the wet stuff into the dryer, Tim was off to the store for goodies. Upon his return, the bike went up on his "very cool" bike lift with the left side panel coming off we proceeded with an oil change to synthetic (what came out was as black as squid ink - no pun) we also did a chain spec tension, tightened up the starter coil, curing the rolling starting issue and replaced a few fairing grommets.




Good thing both Tim & Loni were both there to ensure we were tightening everything to Newton Metric torque specs. Thanks also to Loni for the chain & sprocket cleaning - the only time it was cleaner than Jeff's! From there it was more ridicule for using break fluid as chain lube, how dirty things were, how my chain sat funny, why my vapour drain tube was in the wrong place - I'm just glad I was there for everyone to vent, after all, better me than a lesser man.




After all was done, Tim & Cassie went to work on the most outstanding dinner complete with additional guests and plenty of good natured social (put PC) conversations. Smoked and Q'd ribs, chicken, beans, macaroni salad, fresh corn bread and more beer - fantastic. Tim, you are the king! Rolling off to 10:30, both Jeff & I were feeling the toll of the road, not having our full day off in 4 it was time to crash, but not before another dozen people rolled through the door and the 2nd phase of the evening kicked in. Friends of Tim's from times past there was quickly a roar of mixed conversations about the room. Jeff snuck upstairs to the room while snuck out to the living room and hit the couch. Too funny, as many of the guests were concerned about disturbing me, where I was concerned that my snoring might disturb them - neither was the case as they would look in on me finding a pile of sawdust building from my slumbering lumberjack chorus lines.


Awoke to a straggler from the party sleeping in the other room, apparently having had excessive amounts of whiskey that took it's toll. Not I, fresh as a spring daisy and ready to take on the day. This recap is from the day after as the night before it just wasn't possible. Now, to make the next jaunt from Vancouver, WA - Duvall, WA and Choco's place. Looks like blue sky again, but I'll keep the rain gear on this time.

Sept 4th - Day 21

When waking, the bikes were still there and all the dog show people, trucks and dogs were magically gone. Again, being a little lazy and sluggish we headed out to meet up with Keith in Monroe for coffee at 9:30 (8:45 departure for us). It was a quick little jaunt on the side highway and not 15 min. out of town a familiar set of headlights flashed us and flagged us down. A warm welcome from our guide to the coast, we stopped for a quick plan discussion - what discussion - we're happy to follow you where ever you may lead.



First order of business was a trip up Mary's Peak both for the view and a visit to Rich's stone marker. The view from the top was clear for the most part but the distant clouds made it a little more challengning to pick out Mt. Jefferson and Mt. Hood. It was quite a trip back in time as I recalled this road from the PNW meet in Newport 3 years earlier.






Heading back down, we touched through a short twisty section that the boys just had to go back and do again. Though short, they were high banking angle induced corners that really tested your skill. There were several others doing the same thing. I decided to wait, taking a break to eat some fresh, wild black berries growing road side and take a few pics of the joy that was obvious even through the helmet.





Heading into Corvalis we stopped for a bite of lunch before catching the 20 and some back roads heading for Keith's place. Like stepping through time, the roads were sweeping, tight twisties and laid out before us with a mix of sun drenched fields and mistical, tight hidden areas that are again, Disney in nature. Again, it reminded me of the meet from 2006 only clearer (no fog) and much better roads (new pavement).






Hitting the coast we stopped briefly for a photo op, just happening to catch a couple from Kelowna who were touring the coast in a large motorhome. Another 10 mintues down a cool little one way road, with more stunning views were arrived at Keith's, making for another full day of riding (no days off here).






We headed to a great little place called AAR Place for dinner, celebrating Jalene's birthday and the hospitality of our bed for the night. In the morning we'll be off to see Tim in Vancouver, WA - due to be another short but wet day - with an oil change. It'll be time to dawn the rain gear and take some time, so don't expect too many great photos (unless the rain breaks! wish for us!).

Sept. 03 - Day 20

Leaving Ashland - Thank God.

We were happy to be heading out, on a little shorter day and to travel through Crator Lake. So, we slept in a little late and were little lazy getting going, spending our time in advance. We had a great little warm up with some nice tight sweepers on the Dead Indian Memorial Rd to the junction for Klamath Falls, where we were delayed by new paving construcion. A really cute flag girl had to hold us back as the rest of the traffic from the the road entering left got to go first. Sucked but we were turning off in 7 miles anyway, heading North for Fort Klamath and Crator Lake.

What an incredible contrast of colors. Heading up to the lake the road winds up (park again) providing many different view points to take your own perspective of the huge crater. We spent (I spent) quite a bit of time taking pictures and taking in the view as this was one of the places that I was looking forward to seeing in person. Looked everywhere for the Old Man but he was no where to be seen. Instead I settled for a good shot of Wizard Island.

Finally heading out towards Diamond Lake, we ran into 4 other riders from Canada (3 AB and 1 BC) out for a week's travel. We headed down the 138 but turned off at Steamboat Creek for a hidden Forestry road and an adventure as neither of our GPS were absolute on the route. Winding through the woods for 30 miles we successfully emerged on the other side on the Row River Road, leading us through Cottage Grove. From here we stopped, thinking of either continueing to Eugene or hunting for a small hotel. We decided to push to Veneta and see what we could find - which was nothing, so we headed for Eugene. Now, the road from Cottag Grove to Veneta is a great little treat. If I lived in Cottage Grove, I'd want to date a girl in Veneta just to ride it every day. Real nice!

Well, it was 5:15 and rush hour heat was really getting annoying, so we turned in at a main street motel and booked. Finding out later that there is a huge dog show in town with plenty of owners staying here too. It's all good though, with some custom security for the VFR.

Tomorrow, we're meeting keithbob in Monroe for an espresso and guided tour into Newport. A short 3 hour ride day and some well deserved rest, with a special birthday dinner tomorrow night.

The adventure is drawing to a close with less than 5 days left. Or is it? Who knows? Maybe I'll take a right and head out somewhere else? Stay tuned to find out.

Sept. 02 - Day 19

I never really thought about how much work this would be to keep up, but I am determined. Okay, so we got a decent night and were ready to head out from Chester headed for Lassen Volcanic park then the progressive ride toward Ashland Oregon - leaving California.

Leaving Chester, it was quite chilly. So much so we could almost see our breath. After a casual, woodland ride down hwy 30 with a right on the 89. $5 into the park and it was a restricted speed zone all the way through.

First stop was the Sulpher Stacks - as Jeff demonstrates, the stentch came from the gas escaping, honest. No, honest it wasn't me it was the mountain. The views were incredible and the roads were great, too bad it was a park.

From the park we headed West on the 44 passing through Redding - avoiding the city and interstates it was a direct pass through. I wanted to stop and get a picture by the sign, "Welcome to Whiskeytown" but with the road construction and heat building we just kept pushing through. From Whiskeytown to Weaverville the roads were awesome! Twisting back and forth and again with new paving construction slowng things a little, this will be a great little treak in the future.

A quick stop in Weaverville and we were off North on Hwy 3. Again, we were treated to a mix of twisting mountain roads and long, boring stretches past some dried up valleys as we headed to the state line out of Cali.

As we stopped for a break in Etna for fuel and a snack (ouch, brain freeze on the frappaccino slurpy) just a mile down the road was a great mural on a barn for a small snack / ice cream place. Passing throuh Fort Jones we saw the local road / forestry crew installing what looked like a wild life sensor, covering almost 1/5 mile with motion detectors and large indicators. Looks like it will cut down on the local road kill cafe selection.

We could tell we hit Oregon as the freeway speed went from 65 to 45 just like that. Spending 1/2 hour on the I-5 was more than we wanted to, but it brought us to Ashland and a bed for the night. This town reminds me of Nelson, only bigger. Lots of 'natural' residents and a 10 month long celebration of Shakespear. Our hotel, the "Bard Best Western" was overpriced and probably the worst room yet as the long black hairs on the bathroom floor was neith mine nor Jeff's. We strolled down the street to the Standing Stone Brewery for dinner. The food was mediocre but the beer was excellent! Now, feeling quite the buzz we realized that the % of alcohol is up from the usual 3% in Utah, Nevada & California.

Off to sleep (pass out) now with at least 260 miles tomorrow taking us through Crator Lake.

Don't mind the snorring. . . .

Sept. 01 - Day 18

Up at 6, we packed a load to the bikes and hit breakfast on Jeff's winnings, in the hotel. Quick and simple we were on the road just after 7.

Thanks to Alan (scottinexile) a VFRD member from Reno, we took a little side route to Reno via Virgina City. A great set of sweepers and twisties leading us through the old, historic city. I could easily imagine the dirt roads and wood boardwalks between the buildings, complete with a banner that read, "Camel Races next week".

Coming down the short summit we were treated with a distant view of Reno then a close up as we slabbed it on our way through. Climbing out of the city area headed for Quincy and a loop Jeff insisted on taking, down hwy 119 to Oroville, CA. It started out calm, then deep into wooded area and tight roads, opening up to brand new pavement. For around 30 miles it was 25 - 35 mph corners on clean, black roads - real fun riding in your own groove.

We came out at a bridge crossing over Lake Oroville overlooking a bridge and a houseboat city. Most of the lakes like this we've come across all seem to be really low in water level. The soft orange bluffs flowed gently into the water. Quite a nice ride down. Stopped in Oroville for lunch at a little Mexican fast food place where the Buritto was just too big to finish. The owner came out and talked with us about riding & roads. He too, was quite envious but happy to see us out riding and enjoying California offerings. We finished up and headed for our return loop to hwy 70, heading North towards Greenville & Chester.

Wow, what a valley. The road was long with sweepers, giving plenty of time to actually enjoy the view. There were 3 short tunnesl with the first coming out of nowhere, giving you the distant look of the road simply entering into the mountain. Always love the sound of the V4 through a tunnel, just have to rev it up more than once or twice. Just like a kid with the horn, I guess most boys never really grow up.

There were several power generating stations all the way up with huge rounded boulders giving the impression that they let massive amounts of water go polishing and rounding the large boulders that lined the creek all the way up. We crossed several bridges, with upper and lower rail bridges crossing at the same time.

Just before turning off the 70 to the 89 I spotted these strange formations in the creek bed. Best I could tell, they were a whole bunch of stacked rocks. I figure either by one group doing a bunch or many visitors doing one each. None the less it was a site to behold. We had planned on spending the night in Greenville, but upon arrival we both didn't feel real good about it. Just not welcoming and thought we might come out to the bikes up on blocks and stripped down. After a quick loop around town we headed for Chester. 29 miles up the road we were there in a 1/2 hour and found a great little motel with only 2 rooms left. Right across the street, we hit the grocery store for some Mirror Pond Pale Ale and sandwiches to go. Perfect as the oversized buritto from lunch still sitting in the digestive track.

Feeling very good after a 280 mile day, with another 290 coming tomorrow putting us at the Southern end of Oregon. Anothe nice relaxing evening and up early again. Hope you are enjoying this as much as we are. Eh, probably not. You'll just have to come next time.

Aug. 31st - Day 17

Okay, agian not much to really get excited about here as this was a full day off. First, a view from our room. We arrived yesterday fairly early and ready for relaxation. Carson City is the capital of Nevada but really seems to be struggling business wise as there were quite a few businesses closed down, included a large shopping center anchor called Gottshalks (or something like that). Across the street was a big, new looking hotel casino that has halted consruction, apparently some 9 years ago. Owner's son in some kind of murder thingy, but not a concern of ours.

Sunday night we wandered over to Red's BBQ for a pretty decent dinner. Great decor and 101 beers on tap to choose from. Lee (Choco) if you are reading this, it would be home for you for at least a week or two! They were even so great as to keep my sun glasses that I forgot. As I approached the door, just before opening, a girl came out and said, "you're here for your glasses aren't you? The servers were all commenting that it wash crappy you forgot them." Hey, $13 buck for shades is a big deal!?

Anywho, we just chilled out, had a late breakfast in the hotel, spent several hours planning our route for the coming days, called people in Oregon and warned we'd be passing through, then killed several hours by going to a matinee. It was a choice of District 9 or GI Joe. We chose D9. Quite a wierd movie, shot 1/2 in documentary / Blair Witch style, all about an alien space ship that sets to hover over Johannesburg for 20+ years. Not the best flick to see, but not bad.

Afterwards we figured we'd use our coupons for the casino and spent all of $20 on food, video poker and such. Jeff won around $40 so he's buying breakfast in the morning. Headed to the room and watched a little Bait Car on TV. Some people are just not thinking.

Nice relaxing day off, good night all!

Aug 30th - Day 16

We slept in a little and lazily hit the road around 8:30 AM, continuing on the 395 North heading for Lake Tahoe. Pretty simple and pretty stuff here, over the Monitor Pass at 8314 ft and Luther Pass ast 7735 we approached the district of South Lake Tahoe and could see we were in a playground with money and tourists. The first section of road was a constant 35 with a ton of traffic as some of the most scenic view points in this area were clogged with spectators (us included).

After a stop at one view point, getting a good look at the S part of the lake, we ditched the gloves and decided to take our time and keep the cameras at the ready. A steady pace of small towns with ski shops, bike rentals, camp grounds, cabins, view points, bicyclists and campers kept our attention on break lights and quick turners (alot of malfunctioning signal lights here as most people DON'T SIGNAL).

Coming around the N end, we stopped again for the incredible views of the pristine clear blue waters and large, round rock shore lines where the breakers washed up foamy white. Just down the road, a full beach area and a ton of cars parked all over as people headed to enjoy their day.

There are many times when I curse having my large camera bag on my back the entire time, but then, there are times when having the lenses and remote trigger that allows me to actually document that we were here. Yes, there are usually a ton of people who either ask or offer to have or take a picture, but sometimes, some moments there is no one around.

This was great moment in time, to just chill for a few minutes where Jeff & I reflected on the desert valleys, mesas, mountains and everything in between to appreciate the beauty of Lake Tahoe. Definitly a place to drive through, especially seeing some of the multi-million $$ homes in the 5000 sqft range. I even witnessed a realtor putting out her open house sign around noon on Sunday. Thinking about a quick stop to check it out the thought passed quicker than a mile under our route.

Glancing down, it's now 20 miles to Carson City and a well deserved break. Even though we booked online for reduced rates, we quickly learned that there are a ton of cheap hotels in Carson City. We should have booked across the street at the Plaza Motel, which offered no casino, a pool, wi-fi, laundry and $49/weeknights. Lesson learned. Tomorrow will be casual. Maybe I'll post a pic of the view from our room, but that's about it.

Planning begins for the next 4 day stretch, which will be some 300+ mile days to reach Newport in a decent amount of time to hook up with Keith & Jaylene, then up to Tim's in Vancouver, WA for a much needed oil change. Talk to you again soon.

Just a little note, we've covered over 5000 miles so far, with around another 2000+ to come. I picked up a map of the Western US which will allow me to detail the whole thing. That will have to wait until I get home, but if you are ever thinking of traveling through these states, I'd be happy to share some suggestions. But wait, I'm not done yet. Time for a nap I think.

Aug 29th - Day 15

Ah, waking up at 5:45 in Porterville - nothing exciting really. Actually, I'm quite amazed that my sleep has been fairly good considering I'm waking up in a strange bed, strange room and strange city most every day. When I do get home, I wonder if I'll wake up, get ready and jump on the bike before I know what I'm doing?

We were joined by some firefighting crews at breakfast just before heading out on a 320 mile day, making good time North towards a small town / dot called Walker, just a few miles below Coleville, CA. Heading N on the 65, we passed through Exeter and switched over to the 245 at Woodlake. What began as a meandering road through the country, looking over dry golden fields with a distant mountain backdrop, quickly turned into another gem of gorgeous black top, twisting back and forth into the low level hills and valleys of the Sierra Nevada Mtns.


We stopped a few times to make sure we were on the right track, then rounding a corner came across this little bar in the middle of - nothing - It's amazing to find places like this when you definitely don't expect it. Continuing deeper into the dense brush, we emerged at the 180, taking us West towards Fresno. Getting closer and closer to dense population we aimed to the 41 North with Oakhurst in our sites. This was boring and painful riding as the traffic was busy and the heat was coming on.


A quick bite at Grandma's Dinner (while watching a program on the best steak houses that serve - and people eat - 72 oz steaks!) then we headed out on the 49 towards Mariposa and Coulterville. Kept seeing signs (sorry, no pics of them) of Hornitos 12 miles and La Grange 8 miles, giving a shout out to Tequila and ZZ Top accordingly.

We hit a side road at Coulterville taking us into some wonderful sweeping and twisting roads again pulling out at Don Pedro Lake. We were now the envious ones watching the boats and people playing in the waters below as we downed water and gaulked at the temp gauge.

Getting back to it, we still had over 80 miles to cover and it was now late in the afternoon. Passing through Sonora on the 108 heading around Yosemite we started to enjoy a declining temperature but struggled with fatigue. I had downed a '5 hour Energy' at the last location and found it really helped while Jeff was having difficulty with a plugged ear, heat strain and uninteresting roads behind slower than posted traffic. As we approached the Sonora Pass at 9625 ft, the road got quite interesting again. Probably one of the most technical sections with 10% declines over 10 mp almost vertical corners, blind dips and whoop-te-do's, combined with stunning scenery and campgrounds left and right.

The road mellowed as we approach the left turn on the 395 N, rounding a corner was a sign reading "Watch for Helicopter Debris - Absolutely No Stopping", then opening to a mountain top military base. Just 15 more miles to bed!


Finally, with 4.4 still showing on the GPS was our home for the night, the Toiyabe Motel. A great little 11 room place owned by Sam. We quickly got beer, gas and water for the next day, rushing back to get a meal at Walker Burger, the only place open until 8PM - basically a road side burger shack with a great little garden area out back. Simply scrumptious strawberry milkshake!







Relaxing and route planning in the evening, we had a nice visit with a young couple from Australia doing a month on both the East & West coast. Tomorrow brings a short day (129 miles) and a relaxing ride around Lake Tahoe, with a day off in Carson City. Why Carson? Amazingly, all the little towns in the area are 2x the price for hotels. Night ya'll!

Aug 28 - Day 14

So, here comes Death Valley. Up early and in for our breakfast we hit the road from Pahrump by just after 7:00AM and it was just about 24 degrees. On the 190 we came up on Stovepipe Wells, where the indication for altitude was pretty simple, 0! Just to the left was this desert resort, and further down the road in Furnace Creek (great names) was a camp grounds. Coming into this valley the temp began climbing steadily but it was a different heat, like that kind that wafts over your face as you open a kiln to check your pottery. Traveling along the mountain base we finally turned to cross the long flat area, actually seeing a sign reading, "-150 below sea level". Before long we came across some sand dunes in the distance and had to brave a stop to get a few images. It's around 8:45AM now and reading 33 on the gauge. Pushing forward we started to climb again with road signs warning about dips - ya dips. Like a roller coaster or a moto cross track, the road followed along as we went up and down. Oh ya, climbing - we went up to 5000 ft above, then back down to 0, all within 45 minutes or less.

The final stretch across barren land bringing us to Panamint Springs (originally settled by a cousin of Buffalo Bill) for gas. The attendant was none to shy to mentioned that he envied us on our ride.

From here we had a boring stretch climbing back to some sort of civilization, down a blah blah stretch on the 395 South until turning off on the 41 to cross the Sequia Range. What a change!

Within 15 minutes we went from 36+ heat and dry, desert lands to a mountain road that wound deeper and deeper into a Walt Disney land full of green and brown, cooler temps and tons of critters running across the road. Finally reaching a summit, we paused and met a couple riding up our path down. Apparently, 6 weeks prior some friends of theirs tried to do the route but it was blocked with too much snow. That's like July! It was beautiful for us though.

Rolling down through twisting canyons the road surface improved (a little bumpy from mountain abuse) and now it was more of a concern for gas. Two bars, then one and nothing in sight or on the map. We even ran into another guy who had ran out. Giggling, there was nothing we could do but push on. Turning in at a time share dude ranch (full of sheriff cars?) the guard told us of a single pump about another 12+ miles down the road. The forest road was beautiful, winding through campgrounds gave the hope that there must be fuel close by. There just MUST BE!

Finally there it was, Ponderosa. A single above ground tank and pump with no cover, pump and pulley fully exposed presented with a general store, bar, restaurant. Entering the host said, "I'll turn it on for you but understand it's $5 a gallon." Yah, okay. We need gas so fueled up we had a quick burger and headed out again, all the while being treated like one of the family - the hostess was like an obnoxious sister, complete with a slap upside the head for silly comments.

Departing the station with full tanks and tummies, we thought we were ready for the final 60 miles to a bed, only to come across simply the windiest, twistiest road ever. Imagine 40+ miles of nothing more than 2nd gear, back and forth and back and forth and back and forth and back and forth and back and forth and back and forth . . . . . 40 miles!

Jeff, a much more advanced rider than I, had to stop and take break. Nothing but a huge grin on his face and commenting, "oh my god! I can't believe this! It just won't stop!" Then another 20 miles. This continued down the 190 for the better part of an hour, until smoothing out as we approached Porterville and our home for the night.

Checked into the best western and out to the pool, we were just too bagged to do laundry or much else 'sept'n than this entry, eat some pizza (never again) and crash. Tomorrow, another long 300+ mile day to reach???

Aug 27 - Day 13

What can I say, except we knew today was a short but hot day. How hot? Real Hot! Dam Hot! It was hot, okay. We took off from St. George by 8:15 hitting nothing but slab for 2 hours. Jeff was feeling something funny with his new tires, but after a while they broke in and all was good. We turned off to head down by Lake Mead and Logandale. What lake? It's so dried up that the lady flagger at the construction zone commented that she used to be able to see it from her home but not this year. Dry and drained.

We continued through the desert region, finding nothing of real interest unitl rounding a corner and coming across an oasis. Henderson, or the high end residential area of it. We hit the first gas we could find and decided, as it was such a short day that we'd do a quick trip to see Hoover dam.

That's a big place, and when they finish that bypass road and bridge it'll be even granderer. By now temp gauges were in the 38 range so we b-lined it for Pahrump. Of course we had to endure another 1/2 hour of freeway before finally heading out the 45 mile stretch. Long, hot and boring we counted down the miles. Even hitting the outskirts, it was heaven to finally see the Best Western sign. This is a small, gambling, retirement town that has some potential for growth.

Checked in, then went for gas and beer. Upon returning we noticed a blast from our past sitting i the lot. The General Lee - or a distant relative. They rebuilt her from scratch and still have more to do, but it was a great site none the less. They were nice enough to allow me to try the classic Bo & Luke entry. Ya, no - not even if it was mine. Finally it was pool time. A few beers and dips and the heat was stayed. Dinner in the casino / lounge as it was Karaoke & Ladies night - just not our scene. Off to sleep soon as we've got 329 miles through Death Valley tomorrow.

Until then.

Aug. 26 - Day 12

Not much to say, other than "Yah, a day off!" Jeff headed out to get new tires on his bike while I went in search of a laundry mat. Returnig with clean clothes and time to do some photo updates (I hope y'all appreciate that) I did some recanting of days gone by. We had a quick bite of lunch and planned out our next three days. From here, we'll head to Pahrump, NV. Then up early to beat the heat and pass through Death Valley to Exeter, CA and finally up to Bridgeport. We've decided to bypass Yosimite in favour of some outstanding roads and avoiding park traffic and more park fees. Brigeport is just South of Reno, where we're not sure what we'll do up there, as we're sticking to 4 days of riding and one day off (does a body good).

One shot for you, to see how tough we have it. Not a bad little hotel but we've decided to hunt for Best Western's the rest of the way, with a new 'preferred membership' waiting for us in Pahrump (reminds me of the Little Drummer Boy; Pahrump pa pum pum!)

By the way, a few call outs:

- Fay Myer in Denver, CO: excellent price and service on my new tires, although the sales people in the gear section sucked old sweaters.

- Dillon Inn, Dillon: owner was so accommodating and the venue was perfect.

- Best Western in Montrose: $20 off second night stay and a hot breakfast included, plus a bike wash area and rags.

Aug. 25 - Day 11

Up early, before the sun we had a quick banana breakfast. The next bit of civilization would be Hanksville, more than 139 miles across plains and hills. Fueled up and stocked with water we hit the road around 7:20 on the 261 state hwy.

It felt the road was swalled up by the mountain. As we approached this huge bluff, there was still no visible sign of where it went. Only until you came right up on it was the illusion revealed with a goat trail, gravel road that switched back up more than 800 feet in less than a 1/4 mile. Unbeilevable if I hadn't been there in person. We three were definitly in awe of the veiw of The Valley of the Gods from top.

As we continued through Fry Canyon the valleys again opened and closed. It was desolate. Darren spotted a great spot for a quick break and a photo op, just after I saw Jacob's Chair (a massive Butte in the distance). We took some shots and rehydrated, knowing that breakfast was still hours away. It was tuff to keep going, as it's tough to keep writing as every long distance turn brought another incredible photo opp. We agreed, "okay, no more stopping" but each time we did we all agreed it was worth it. Just more and more!

We crossed a bridge over a dried up river, rounding to an oasis of jade green - a distant branch of Lake Powel. We continued winding up another canyon (40 mp corners in the middle of nowhere) until a final plateau. Now only 35 miles of long, straight "patrolled" roads to Hanksville. Once there it was gas and a food stop at Bonnie's. Ahh, breakfast at last.

Fueled and fed we pushed through some basic areas, then came across a slow moving herd of Harely riders. Support vehicle in the back was full of luggage, we contined to pass as the leader flew a French flag. "Oh, I see. A harley tour through the Utah country side". I'm sure they saw us go by and thought, "look, real bikers and they carry their own gear".

We hit the turn off at Torrey, and it was an unwelcome moment. Darren would turn off here and head his way back North for his 2100 km trip back to Saskatoon. Man it sucks loosing a good traveling buddy, especially one who helped arrange the whole reason. A good solid hug and we were off in our own directions.

Jeff & I continued to press on to St. George, passing through monster rain (hurt like being shot with pellets), over the Boulder Mtn Park, then down the other side where the heat came again, drying us out and warming us back up. On through Capital Reef park, for a mix of canyons, valley, passes and ranges. Through Bryce Canyon NP with it's contrasting orange cliffs, green pines and blues skies. Absolutely no photo retouching needed. Then on to Zion. Zion was cool ($12 ea to go) and we knew it would be full of images, so off came the gloves and the camera went around the neck. Park speed was 30, which you can't exceed due to winding roads, so we road and clicked all the way. At the end of the park it was tourist central with Zion this and Zion that. We wanted out and wanted a room with a pool. We came out and finally hit Washington, UT, with brand new 6 lane black top all the way in. Watched the GPS count down the miles & time to arrival (7,6,5,4,3,2,1!). Checked in, dropped the gear, got gas, got beer, got changed and splashed down.

Even the VFRs got a veiw of the pool. With a day off tomorrow, this was all worth it!

Aug. 24 - Day 10

We were up early but needed to attend to a few things before departing. Miguel took his leave and headed home while we took a quick trip to the local dealer to tend to a nail in Jeff's tire, pick up some new rain gear for Darren and I was looking at rain gloves. All things done and back to the room, it had been raining since 6:00AM. There was a good hope for the day as we were headed for Utah and the promise of hot days and clear skies.

Leaving Montrose around 10:30 was much later than planned but we only had a 280 mile day, we headed out on the 50 North, then to turn SW and S towards the Utah State line via the 141. As we cleared the main highway, the skies opened and the temperature she did climb, calling for a quick stop to de-layer. From here it was an entry into back canyon roads and desolate homesteads. The canyons grew around us providing some fantastic scenery. Taking a right we weren't absolute about we headed out with the hopes of a gas station to come. Surprise as we came across one lonely store in Bedrock. A pump, a store and an outhouse. That's it. It was good enough for a break as we were destined for Mexican Hat in the South East corner of Utah.

We were passing through Manti la Sal National Forest, rambling down roads that followed the riverbends and canyons formed so many years ago. Incredible! The road just wound through this canyon. One minute we were up above on the flats, then decended into the dry river bed. Around a corner and there appears an adobe style, modern resort with what looked like a golf course in the back (lush and green), but that was it, no town. Then it was gone. Was it real?

We proceeded and finally took a break at a 20 mp corner that overlooked an amazine section, with a steep drop and the reminants of a cart path, built into the mountain. The story goes, it was a water supply trail for a hydrolic mining operation in 1881. The mine produced no gold and went 'under' in less than 2 years.






Taking our views we pushed on knowing we still had many miles ahead. Coming out at La Sal Junction we were headed South, but not before rounding the first corner and seeing Wilson's arch, with an all new residential development around. Nice views, but you'd be having tourists looking at you everyday. I'm happy living in the Okanagan and looking in other people's back yards. It's nice traveling with 3 or 4 but it's also tough seeing so many things and not stopping every 15 minutes. Have to find a left handed camera to take pictures while riding. We stopped for a quick bite in Montecello, all the while watching our speed. Every town had a sherriff, leaning against their car, just wishing we'd break it. Not us, no sir!

Blanding was the last form of civilization we saw as we entered what was an incredible, desert type valley. Everywhere you look were messa and butes, balancing rocks, disappearing horizons and no clue where the road was taking us. For miles there was no traffic. Feeling very desolate.

I kept thinking in my helmet, "This is so much to take in, but my god it feels like the end of the world. What did the road builders and cowboys do to keep it together? We felt like we were on a flat, when the road would continue to wind down into further depths, while the GPS said only 12 miles left. Left to what? Coming around a corner, everything opened up again and there was this lonely sign, "Valley of the Gods". Breaks on and full stop. Wholly!

2 miles left and I felt like I was riding my iron horse into the desolate western town, when out of no where appears this little town. Two motels and a very modern gas station. Our home for the night, the Hat Rock Inn, Mexican Hat, Utah. We did our usual; gassed up, grabbed beer, got to the room, showered and relaxed on the back porch. Dinner that night would be a swigging steak. An 18 oz rib eye we split. Swigging Steak: 1/2 barrel with mesquite wood with a large grilling rack suspended on two chains that continuously swings over the flames. Complemented with no flavour beans, small salad and Texas toast. We each had two beer and the bill - $92. We were paying full tourist pop. Eh? It was an experience.

Back to the room, 1 more beer and off to bed. A long 420 mile day awaits us.