Sept 8th - Day 25 (The End is Nigh)

Well, what began on Aug. 15th at an early hour some 25 days ago, looms on the horizon (through the fog) as the culmination of my adventure.


Up at 6:30 and packed by 7:15 I enjoyed a coffee and light breakfast with a non to active Lee. Seems he was feeling a little under today as I was energized from a great sleep and excellent previous day off. Final check and inspection that all zippers were zipped I headed out from Duvall just before 8AM through the fog.


After clearing Arlington on the 203 and Menzel Lk Rd, the fog lifted and blue skies appeared with promises kept for the whole route home. I nixed the rain jacket (nylon fly we'll call it) and felt a touch of the sun but the temp stayed at a comfortable 12-18 most of the way.


Passing Darrington I began to get glimpses of Mount Baker in the distance, with the fog clouds continuing to burn off. It looked so majestic and serene. Riding through the mix of wooded and farm fields I truly enjoyed every moment, but with typical glances in the side mirrors there was a slight feeling of solitude as this was the only time, the only day I was solo. I was so used to either following or leading with someone the entire time that I almost expected to see the single headlight of Jeff appearing in the distance. No matter, this as with all the other wondrous views was for me.

Pausing several times for photos, I lingered for a 15 minute break just after coming around the summit corner (plenty of new chip seal) and looked back at the sharp mountains I had just passed through. A great mix of roads and ideal conditions, the rest of the way my head filled with images past. I too look forward to reading this again from start to finish as I sift through the over 1000 images that will serve to remind me of what a blessed and excellent trip it has been.




A quick stop for lunch at 12:30 in Winthrop with it's old west street appeal, I headed for the final US stretch. Stopping in Omak for a fuel top off and the simple 40 mile jaunt to the border. The wait at customs took a little more than 1/2 hour with a very friendly and welcoming officer. He asked more questions about my trip and highlights than duty issues.



Still trying to avoid highway where ever possible, I quickly rode up to Burrowing Owl Winery for a view overlooking the S. Okanagan vineyards. First and only time I got stung by a wasp, little bugger got me just under my right cheek. At least it shows I can still feel. Passing through Summerland I was quite impressed with the progress of the Hwy 97 widening project, as it looks so much better and will provide safer and quicker passage to future South bound trips. Sometimes you just can't avoid a slab.




Just before the decent into Peachland, I again paused for a break and enjoyed the lake and valley view towards home. With everything experienced this trip, I still appreciate the beauty of where I live. Of course, add to that the absence of heavy rain and of course I was happy to be dry and warm on my final leg.







I pulled into my garage at just before 7PM. Just hanging my jacket and Crystal, not hearing the door or me, opened the door with a very surprised and welcoming look, "Welcome home Honey!" and she hugged her big, smelly husband with all the might that an 85lb person can.


Home. I honestly felt really good. So good that given different circumstances I could easily continue on. The travel rule of 4 days riding 1 day off really made everything (even the worst day) quite right. Of course, the bonus of having helpful hands along the way, a friendly home and garage (and laundry) to ride towards and all the incredible people who also own VFR's and participate in an online discussion group really helps too.


Now, it's time to relax, do laundry, clean the bike and start sifting through the images. I'll be tracing the entire route (by the way, final count was 6754 miles) on a Western US map with a summary of roads, hotels and places that are must see's for anyone else taking a trip. One more post to come. Of course I also need to start making plans for next year's meet. Not as long a trip, but none the less - a key part of great living.



Always have something (no matter what) to look forward too.

Never doubt yourself.

Trust in true friendship.

Know where you come from and dream of where you'll go.

Sept 7th - Day 24

To start off, let me say this, "Jeff, I know you had to get home but you MISSED OUT!".

Though the days at Keith's and Tim's were shorter, the bonus of Lee & Pauline having me for two evenings and taking all of Monday off really allowed me to revitalize, especially with the tour Lee took me on into Seattle and area.

We started the afternoon with a visit to the Taproom, a favourite of Lee's for the selection of 160+ beer on tap with seasonal rotating varieties. A sample rack of 4 - 6 oz glasses got things off to a good start, enjoying Tricerahops IPA- Dead Guy Ale - Pike's 2x IPA - Bunt Ale. All were different and delictable but the Bunt won out for the final full pint. Quite the huge place, with a massive curved bar, large open seating area and a pool room in the back that housed 3 sweet pool tables plus room for more.




With a light glow we walked over to Pike's Public Market to take in the architecture, culture (that would be the interesting mix of people) and the imense sensory overload of the shops, varieties and colours that the market offered. Of course we only saw a small portion as we had other places to visit. From here we went to the Chittaden Locks where it was packed with all sizes of boats and yachts moving from fresh to sea water. Plenty of large salmon jumping and friendly people all about.


We missed the opportunity to check out the world's largest building and tour of, at the Boeing assmebly plant but that will be handled on the next visit down. Timing was everything and with our tummy's growling we headed out to Mulkiteo for a great new experience.

It was the Diamond Knot Brewery & Pub for dinner and getting Stoned! Quite cool - like a fondeau only better and not messy. I ordered the tenderloin medallions, which came out raw and sizzling on a super heated flat stone. You proceed to add your sauce, beer and spices and cook it to your own liking right there. Fantastic with the Industrial IPA we enjoyed along side. Oh, and you get peanuts to de-shell onto the floor too, but not for peanuts, just add it to the bill, eh.

Our server, a 24 year old young lady who was sick of fine dining and a 3 week rookie, ended up convincing me that I needed a shirt to prove I got stoned. Of course the extra large was $2 more. Cheese & Rice! We decided to wrap up before getting to far out of hand. What a place though. Not grungy, just comfortable and great atmosphere. You even get to piss into a spent keg of Budweiser as they don't serve it here.

We headed back to Lee's for a final night-beer, tightening of the chain and confirming my route home tomorrow. Weather is calling for one, yes one clear day then more rain. 370 miles to make it to my starting point. It's almost coming to an end - but not yet . . . .

Sept 6th - Day 23 (The Worst Day)

Note: Due to the severe weather encountered, I apologize for no pictures here. Use your imagination.

Well, it started out knowing that we would hit rain. I wasn't able to plan a route with Sally so it was understood that this route was up to Jeff to get us the 234+ miles to Lee's place in Duvall. I had all the faith in him for the 4-5 hour endeavour.

We left Tim's with a big hug and faith in making it through. Heading up the interstate we branched off at the 503 bound for Cougar and the loop around Mt St. Helen. The 30 miles of the 503 were miserable as we were pummelled by driving rain which worked it's way into every nook, cranny, both sides of the visor making visibility really bad, fingers, toes and the dreaded crotch soaking! We pulled under an abandoned station. Decisions to make: do we turn back to the interstate, push on through Mt St Helens or get a room and wait it out - as we reviewed the map and Jeff's plans, it was off to St. Helens.

Pulling out the rain stopped and the sun came through, only to be a wave goodbye though. The rain got heavier and the temperature dropped to 6 on my gauge. I would lift my hand and squeeze my glove like a sponge watching the water drain, only to have it re saturate as I opened my fingers. We pulled into Randle for temporary shelter at a station and decided to push down the 12 to Morton (a town I recognized as where Craig & I had stayed some 3 years prior, returning from the PNW Newport meet). Here we gassed up and had a quick sandwich.

Jeff looked at me and said, "I think that was a mistake". Shivering I agreed with a grin but it was done and behind us. Visors cleaned and quick call to Lee informing him that we were still 138 miles away, we proceeded up Hwy 7 to Eatonville with a renewed plan to get there. Jeff was determined to keep us away from the interstate and the blowing sheets of rain of traffic. Though at this point, I could have argued the direct factor I kept the faith as we traveled on the 162 North. It wasn't until we went through Burnett, heading South on the 165 (oopps, wrong way - a move I was known for) for a couple of miles. At this point my GPS started to add miles rather than diminish. Stop. Map check and regrouping. Time to get there cause I was shivering and getting leg cramps from the prolonged temp and full drenching.

We passed through Buckley, heading for Enumclaw (wait till you read the next paragraph on this one) we continued through varying rain, sun, rain, driving rain and black fog. A mish mash of turns and roads finally brought us to the 169, overlooking the 18 above where I knew we 'wanted' to be. Stopping on the road side I waited to see how far Jeff would continue before noticing I was not there. Minutes later he returned and we were both frustrated and fatigued. He commented, "we need to stick to one GPS and stop chasing side roads." I asked if he was ready for the interstate now and I would follow the last 39 miles to just get there. Away we go and at 5:15 we pulled into Lee's garage, 9 hours to complete a 6 hour journey. I dismounted and found the notes from Lee to make ourselves at home, turning around to find Jeff still on his bike planning his final 3 hours to get home to Vancouver, WA. He as determined to get there and he was off.

I went in, put the clothes on to wash, had a hot shower and changed to dry duds. Ahhh, a beer in hand and MotoGP racing on TV I was getting the good feelings back in me. Around 7:30 Lee and his wife Pauline came home, greeting me like a brother. We kibitzed about the trip, then Pauline broke the news (noted from above).

Apparently, a TYPHOON had been reported hitting Enumclaw, causing power outages, down trees, property damage and extreme debris on several roads. We were riding right along side of this weather system, just missing the eye of damage by about 1/2 hour. Hindsight and a blessed hand that guided us through, providing some valued experience and lessons. Lessons that will be with me in the future that I will document in the summary to follow in a few days.

Relaxing at Lee's and thanking him for a 2 day layover with the promise of weather reports that Tuesday will bring sunshine and dry roads to travel the final 354 miles to home. A real home! No more loading the bags every morning, searching for laundry facilities and planning routes to new adventures. It will be time for recapping and documenting the entire trip.

Sept 5th - Day 22

After a great night sleep (and awesome dinner) we awoke around 7ish and slowly gathered ourselves together for the short jaunt to Vancouver, WA. Dawning our rain gear as the forecast called for our first encounter with wet stuff in weeks, we headed up the road to Lincoln City and a turn off at Otis as we took the 18 towards Portland. We weren't able to avoid some slabbing to make it over the Columbia, crossing into Washington.


We stopped at a small cafe for a bite, not having any moisture hit us yet. Exiting, it was still looking like blue sky trying to burn through the clouds so I made the decision to nix my jacket but keep the rain pants on (what was I thinking - obviously not thinking). Not more than a 1/2 hour down the road, the rain started up. We continued on and once looking down with Sally showing only 1 hour to our destination it was time to scrum up and push through.


Heavy rains, traffic and the worn plastic of my zip lock baggie (impromptu rain cover for the GPS) made visibility of lanes and turns a little tough. True to my nature I missed a lane and ended up taking us into an industrial area of Portland. Jeff, being ever so supportive pulled up and yelled through his helmet, "What are you turning for, we're still in Portland?!" Ya, I know, just another little side trip with Sally & I. Quickly we re-routed and headed back on the freeway, pulling into Tim & Cassie's neighbourhood within 30 minutes. Within another 30 minutes, the sky cleared the sun came out. A call from Keith also confirmed, had we waited until 11 to leave we would have had a dry ride the whole way. Eh? No big deal.

We were greeted with towels, hugs and beer! A quick change into dry clothes and the wet stuff into the dryer, Tim was off to the store for goodies. Upon his return, the bike went up on his "very cool" bike lift with the left side panel coming off we proceeded with an oil change to synthetic (what came out was as black as squid ink - no pun) we also did a chain spec tension, tightened up the starter coil, curing the rolling starting issue and replaced a few fairing grommets.




Good thing both Tim & Loni were both there to ensure we were tightening everything to Newton Metric torque specs. Thanks also to Loni for the chain & sprocket cleaning - the only time it was cleaner than Jeff's! From there it was more ridicule for using break fluid as chain lube, how dirty things were, how my chain sat funny, why my vapour drain tube was in the wrong place - I'm just glad I was there for everyone to vent, after all, better me than a lesser man.




After all was done, Tim & Cassie went to work on the most outstanding dinner complete with additional guests and plenty of good natured social (put PC) conversations. Smoked and Q'd ribs, chicken, beans, macaroni salad, fresh corn bread and more beer - fantastic. Tim, you are the king! Rolling off to 10:30, both Jeff & I were feeling the toll of the road, not having our full day off in 4 it was time to crash, but not before another dozen people rolled through the door and the 2nd phase of the evening kicked in. Friends of Tim's from times past there was quickly a roar of mixed conversations about the room. Jeff snuck upstairs to the room while snuck out to the living room and hit the couch. Too funny, as many of the guests were concerned about disturbing me, where I was concerned that my snoring might disturb them - neither was the case as they would look in on me finding a pile of sawdust building from my slumbering lumberjack chorus lines.


Awoke to a straggler from the party sleeping in the other room, apparently having had excessive amounts of whiskey that took it's toll. Not I, fresh as a spring daisy and ready to take on the day. This recap is from the day after as the night before it just wasn't possible. Now, to make the next jaunt from Vancouver, WA - Duvall, WA and Choco's place. Looks like blue sky again, but I'll keep the rain gear on this time.

Sept 4th - Day 21

When waking, the bikes were still there and all the dog show people, trucks and dogs were magically gone. Again, being a little lazy and sluggish we headed out to meet up with Keith in Monroe for coffee at 9:30 (8:45 departure for us). It was a quick little jaunt on the side highway and not 15 min. out of town a familiar set of headlights flashed us and flagged us down. A warm welcome from our guide to the coast, we stopped for a quick plan discussion - what discussion - we're happy to follow you where ever you may lead.



First order of business was a trip up Mary's Peak both for the view and a visit to Rich's stone marker. The view from the top was clear for the most part but the distant clouds made it a little more challengning to pick out Mt. Jefferson and Mt. Hood. It was quite a trip back in time as I recalled this road from the PNW meet in Newport 3 years earlier.






Heading back down, we touched through a short twisty section that the boys just had to go back and do again. Though short, they were high banking angle induced corners that really tested your skill. There were several others doing the same thing. I decided to wait, taking a break to eat some fresh, wild black berries growing road side and take a few pics of the joy that was obvious even through the helmet.





Heading into Corvalis we stopped for a bite of lunch before catching the 20 and some back roads heading for Keith's place. Like stepping through time, the roads were sweeping, tight twisties and laid out before us with a mix of sun drenched fields and mistical, tight hidden areas that are again, Disney in nature. Again, it reminded me of the meet from 2006 only clearer (no fog) and much better roads (new pavement).






Hitting the coast we stopped briefly for a photo op, just happening to catch a couple from Kelowna who were touring the coast in a large motorhome. Another 10 mintues down a cool little one way road, with more stunning views were arrived at Keith's, making for another full day of riding (no days off here).






We headed to a great little place called AAR Place for dinner, celebrating Jalene's birthday and the hospitality of our bed for the night. In the morning we'll be off to see Tim in Vancouver, WA - due to be another short but wet day - with an oil change. It'll be time to dawn the rain gear and take some time, so don't expect too many great photos (unless the rain breaks! wish for us!).

Sept. 03 - Day 20

Leaving Ashland - Thank God.

We were happy to be heading out, on a little shorter day and to travel through Crator Lake. So, we slept in a little late and were little lazy getting going, spending our time in advance. We had a great little warm up with some nice tight sweepers on the Dead Indian Memorial Rd to the junction for Klamath Falls, where we were delayed by new paving construcion. A really cute flag girl had to hold us back as the rest of the traffic from the the road entering left got to go first. Sucked but we were turning off in 7 miles anyway, heading North for Fort Klamath and Crator Lake.

What an incredible contrast of colors. Heading up to the lake the road winds up (park again) providing many different view points to take your own perspective of the huge crater. We spent (I spent) quite a bit of time taking pictures and taking in the view as this was one of the places that I was looking forward to seeing in person. Looked everywhere for the Old Man but he was no where to be seen. Instead I settled for a good shot of Wizard Island.

Finally heading out towards Diamond Lake, we ran into 4 other riders from Canada (3 AB and 1 BC) out for a week's travel. We headed down the 138 but turned off at Steamboat Creek for a hidden Forestry road and an adventure as neither of our GPS were absolute on the route. Winding through the woods for 30 miles we successfully emerged on the other side on the Row River Road, leading us through Cottage Grove. From here we stopped, thinking of either continueing to Eugene or hunting for a small hotel. We decided to push to Veneta and see what we could find - which was nothing, so we headed for Eugene. Now, the road from Cottag Grove to Veneta is a great little treat. If I lived in Cottage Grove, I'd want to date a girl in Veneta just to ride it every day. Real nice!

Well, it was 5:15 and rush hour heat was really getting annoying, so we turned in at a main street motel and booked. Finding out later that there is a huge dog show in town with plenty of owners staying here too. It's all good though, with some custom security for the VFR.

Tomorrow, we're meeting keithbob in Monroe for an espresso and guided tour into Newport. A short 3 hour ride day and some well deserved rest, with a special birthday dinner tomorrow night.

The adventure is drawing to a close with less than 5 days left. Or is it? Who knows? Maybe I'll take a right and head out somewhere else? Stay tuned to find out.

Sept. 02 - Day 19

I never really thought about how much work this would be to keep up, but I am determined. Okay, so we got a decent night and were ready to head out from Chester headed for Lassen Volcanic park then the progressive ride toward Ashland Oregon - leaving California.

Leaving Chester, it was quite chilly. So much so we could almost see our breath. After a casual, woodland ride down hwy 30 with a right on the 89. $5 into the park and it was a restricted speed zone all the way through.

First stop was the Sulpher Stacks - as Jeff demonstrates, the stentch came from the gas escaping, honest. No, honest it wasn't me it was the mountain. The views were incredible and the roads were great, too bad it was a park.

From the park we headed West on the 44 passing through Redding - avoiding the city and interstates it was a direct pass through. I wanted to stop and get a picture by the sign, "Welcome to Whiskeytown" but with the road construction and heat building we just kept pushing through. From Whiskeytown to Weaverville the roads were awesome! Twisting back and forth and again with new paving construction slowng things a little, this will be a great little treak in the future.

A quick stop in Weaverville and we were off North on Hwy 3. Again, we were treated to a mix of twisting mountain roads and long, boring stretches past some dried up valleys as we headed to the state line out of Cali.

As we stopped for a break in Etna for fuel and a snack (ouch, brain freeze on the frappaccino slurpy) just a mile down the road was a great mural on a barn for a small snack / ice cream place. Passing throuh Fort Jones we saw the local road / forestry crew installing what looked like a wild life sensor, covering almost 1/5 mile with motion detectors and large indicators. Looks like it will cut down on the local road kill cafe selection.

We could tell we hit Oregon as the freeway speed went from 65 to 45 just like that. Spending 1/2 hour on the I-5 was more than we wanted to, but it brought us to Ashland and a bed for the night. This town reminds me of Nelson, only bigger. Lots of 'natural' residents and a 10 month long celebration of Shakespear. Our hotel, the "Bard Best Western" was overpriced and probably the worst room yet as the long black hairs on the bathroom floor was neith mine nor Jeff's. We strolled down the street to the Standing Stone Brewery for dinner. The food was mediocre but the beer was excellent! Now, feeling quite the buzz we realized that the % of alcohol is up from the usual 3% in Utah, Nevada & California.

Off to sleep (pass out) now with at least 260 miles tomorrow taking us through Crator Lake.

Don't mind the snorring. . . .